The field of RC has several different facets; there’s really something for everybody. One of the areas I’ve set my sights on mastering is definitely the drift segment. It basically is the opposite of everything I’ve learned in terms of driving sliding is superior to grip, more power does not mean a faster vehicle and tire compounds, well, plastic is better than rubber. So when 3Racing sent over their Axial SCX10, I needed to scoop one around see what each of the hoopla was using this type of drifter.
AT A GLANCE
WHO MAKES IT: 3Racing
WHO IT’S FOR: Any level of drift enthusiast
PART NUMBER: KIT-D4AWD
Exactly How Much: $115.00
BUILD TYPE: Kit
• AWD for convenient learning ?
• Narrow 3mm FRP chassis ?
• Wide, high-angle dual bellcrank steering ?
• Highly adjustable front, Y-arm suspension ?
• Battery positioning while watching motor or around the rear diffuser ?
• Aluminum motor mount ?
• Threaded shocks ?Plenty of tuning adjustment ?
• Extremely affordable pric
• Front drive belt slips away from the roller bearing
This drifter has considerably choosing it; well manufactured, a great deal of pretty aluminum and rolls in with a very reasonable price. Handling is nice too once you become accustomed to the kit setup, plus it accepts an extremely wide variety of body styles. There’s also a huge amount of tunability for those that want to tinker, so this car should grow with you as the skills do.
The D4’s chassis can be a 3mm sheet of FRP, or Fiber-Reinforced Plastic. They have cutouts on the bottom for that front and rear diffs to peek through in addition to a bazillion countersunk holes. A large number of can be used as mounting stuff like the bulkheads, servo and battery box, but you will find a number of left empty. They can be utilized to control chassis flex, but not with all the stock top deck; an optional one must be found. The layout is just like a regular touring car; front bulkhead/ suspension, steering system, electronics, battery box, motor mount system and lastly the back bulkhead/ suspension. Things are easy to access and replaceable with just a couple of turns of some screws.
? Apart from a number of interesting pieces, a drifter’s suspension is much like a touring car’s. Just one A and D mount and separate B and C mounts are being used, both having dual support screws and stamped, metal shims to improve them up. The suspension arms have droop screws, anti-roll bar mounts and adjustable wheelbase shims. The rear suspension uses vertical ball studs to manage camber and roll while the front uses an intriguing, dual pickup front Y-arm setup. This system allows the adjustment of camber, caster and roll and swings smoothly on upper and lower pivot balls. It’s actually quite unique and provides for some extreme camber settings.
? A very important factor that’s pretty amazing with drift cars is the serious amount of steering throw they may have. Starting with the bellcranks, they’re positioned as far apart so that as near to the edges of your chassis as is possible. This generates a massive 65° angle, enough to manipulate the D4 in even deepest of slides. Since drifters spend nearly all of their time sideways, I wanted an effective servo to keep up with the ceaseless countersteering enter Futaba’s S9551 Low-Pro? le Digital Servo.
Although it is not needing anything near its 122 oz. of torque, the .11 speed is de? nitely enough to keep up with any steering angle changes I needed it a moment’s notice.
? The D4 utilizes a dual belt design, spinning a front, fluid-filled gear differential and rear spool. A massive, 92T 48P spur is linked to the central gear shaft, where the front and back belts meet. Pulleys maintain the front belt high over the chassis, and 3mm CVDs transfer the strength for the wheels. Standardized 12mm hexes are included to enable using a selection of different wheel and tire combos.
? To offer the D4 some beauty, I prefered 3Racing Wraith parts body from ABC Hobby. This really is a beautiful replica on this car and included a slick group of decals, looking fantastic once mounted. I wasn’t sure the best way to paint it, however i do remember a technique I used some time back that got a bit of attention. So, I gave the RX-3 a shot of pearl white in the underside, but painted the fenders black on the exterior. After everything was dry, I shot the exterior using a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear. I really like the very last result … plus it was easy. That’s good because I’m an extremely impatient painter!
In The TRACK
For this test, I needed the privilege of putting this four-wheel drifter upon the iconic Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. I used to be heading there to do a photo shoot for an additional vehicle and thought, heck, why not take it along and acquire some sideways action?
The steering on the D4 is very amazing. As I mentioned earlier, the throw can be a whopping 65 degrees with zero interference from any parts. The CVD’s can turn that far, allowing smooth input of power at full lock. Even though it does look a little funny with all the tires turned that far (remember, I’m a touring car guy), the D4 does an incredible job of keeping the slide controlled and transferring the proper direction. This is certainly, in part, thanks to the awesome handling in the D4, but the speedy Futaba servo.
Drifting is just not about overall speed but wheel speed controlled. I know that sounds odd, but once you’ve mastered the wheel speed of the drifter, you are able to control the angle of attack along with the sideways motion through any corner. I came across Novak’s Drift Spec system allowed me to do simply that make controlled, smooth throttle modifications to change the angle in the D4 where and when I needed. Sliding inside a little shallow? Increase throttle to have the tail end to whip out. Starting to over cook the corner? Ease up a lttle bit and also the D4 would get back in line. It’s all dependent on ? nesse, along with the Novak system is designed for simply that. I have done really need to be a little bit creative with all the install of your system as a result of limited space in the chassis, but overall it resolved great.
After driving hooked up touring cars for a time, it can do take a little becoming accustomed to with the knowledge that a car losing grip and sliding is the proper way round the track. It’s also good practice for managing throttle control after you get it, it’s beautiful. Going for a car and pitching it sideways via a sweeper, while keeping the nose pointed in at less than several inches from your curb … it’s actually very rewarding. It’s a controlled out of hand thing, as well as the D4 does it wonderfully. The kit setup is useful, but if you think as if you require more of something anything there’s lots of points to adjust. I just enjoyed the auto using the kit setup and it was only an issue of a battery pack or two before I had been swinging the rear across the hairpins, round the carousel and back and forth with the chicane. I never had the chance to strap the battery around the diffuser, but that’s something I’m looking towards.
There’s little you can do to damage a drift car they’re not really going all of that fast. I have done, however, offer an trouble with the front side belt’s bearing pulley mounted to the very top deck. During the initial run, it suddenly felt much like the D4 acquired a bit drag brake. I kept by using it, trying to overcome the issue with driving, but soon needed to RPM Team losi parts it directly into actually check it out. In the build, the belt slips right into a plastic ‘tunnel’ which is supported by a bearing, keeping it above any chassis mounted things like the ESC or servo. The belt, though, doesn’t sit square on the bearing; it’s half on and half off. So, if the drivetrain is spooling up, the belt will sometimes slide from the bearing, ?opping around and catching on anything it appears in contact with. To ?x this, I simply 3raccingSakura a prolonged screw with several 1mm shims to space the bearing out a little more. Problem solved.